Il Falconiere *

There’s not much more I can say about Il Falconiere, after two memorable stays that Cíntia talked about here and here. So I’ll talk again about the starred restaurant, the reason we heard about this wonderful refuge in the first place.

Silvia was born in the kitchen, in a family of restauranteurs. Her husband, Ricardo, was born oenologist in a farming property, in particular, wine and olive oil. The motto was set for them together to rebuild the former family house and create a restaurant, which future they couldn’t begin to imagine.

We were living the blazing years of Frances in her “Under the Tuscan Sun” – actually it’s easy to find the author around there –  and everybody had the dream to travel to Tuscany, and Silvia’s restaurant was a mandatory stop in the distant area of Cortona.

By Silvia’s side is Richard Titi, executive chef, who’s been heading the stoves and kitchen of Il Falconiere since the winning of the Michelin star in 2002.

The Baracchi’s idea is to bet in Tuscan tradition, mostly from the Abruzzo region, and create a cuisine that lives all the atmosphere we feel when entering their property. Classic, with the comfort and knowledge of traditional cuisine, with contemporary aesthetics and technique.

Arriving at the restaurant we quickly realize where we are and what we’re here for while appreciating the historic arcades and paintings assuring us we’re in Tuscany.

Comfortably seated we are quickly welcomed with the Baracchi’s classic sparkling wine, and a large selection of bread, even gluten-free options (that villain!).

Among the several menu and tasting options, we chose a menu dedicated to game dishes, that caught our eye on our previous visit, us being in a region with a strong hunting tradition.

Amuse Bouche

To start, an interesting amuse bouche, that combined a ricotta souffle with eggplant, courgette, and pepper, contrasting with the quinoa and a cuttlefish ink tile, elevating the textures and contrasts.

Game terrine, juniper crumble, cocoa and visciolino sauce
A much more complex dish than I remembered from our last visit. Nice combination of flavors around the forest with the complexity of the terrine. Highscore to the visciolino sauce – a sweet wine with a slightly bitter ending – homemade there, that elevated all the harmonization.

Fried boar meatball with quince puree and hazelnut cream 
It would never be my first thought when thinking of eating boar (one of my favorite meats). However, the good frying, the moist and juicy meat, turned into a tasting above the expectations.

Pheasant Tortellini, its broth and marsala wine
At a much superior level, this perfect tortellini – perfectly cooked pasta, good pheasant filling and a broth that warmed our souls. A great way of improving traditional cuisine!

Venison filled pasta, chestnut, and chickpea soup 
Another excellent dish, full of flavor cream, great venison ragu and an aromatic fennel seed olive oil refreshing the aroma of the combo. Another authentic dish, purely Italian, presented at a very high standard.

Quail with dried figs and finocchiona, chicory leaves and potato 
Much more interesting in flavor than in looks, with a surprising filling of dry fruits with finocchiona (a typical Tuscan salami). Classic and tasty!

petit fours 

Followed the petit fours, the Italian way, arriving as a pre-dessert. A combination of classic flavors, with the presence of the great cantucci.

 Dark chocolate biscuit, nutmeg caramel, chestnuts, and coffee ice cream
You can’t fail with chocolate! Here presented as biscuit crumble, nicely combined with the flavors of the season and the nutmeg notes, the chestnuts and a good coffee ice cream. A simple and nicely accomplished ending!

Harmonizing was a Baracchi family wine, as expected, this time the Ardito 2012, produced with Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Top notch, as the previous harvest, complex and concentrated, full of dark and ripe fruit, balanced by the black pepper notes. A wine of strong personality, a good company for the meats of our menu.

Heading the service is still Luigi Pipparelli, and just by that, you can expect an efficient service, without any rush or complications, but also with no detail left to chance.

Final Remarks
As Cíntia so nicely wrote in her last article about Il Falconiere (see), it is always nice to return to where you were happy. But even more so when you realize things are not still, nor stuck in the past. The cuisine of Silvia Baracchi and Richard Titi shows precisely that, a technical evolution, bigger aesthetic care, and attention to small details, but also the same tradition of rich and comforting flavors that always transport us to a soul and authentic cuisine.

A space you can always trust to come back and enjoy the purity of Tuscany!

Il Falconiere – Relais & Châteaux
Average price: 70€ pax/without wines
San Martino a Bocena, 370 – Cortona
+39 0575 612 679 
info@ilfalconiere.it

Versão Portuguesa

Photos: Flavors & Senses

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