Restaurant Pur’ – Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme

To complete our stay at Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme (Read here), nothing like visiting its signature restaurant, Pur’, invitation of the amazing Coralie Malazdra (Communication Management), headed by Jean-François Rouquette since 2005 and owner of a Michelin star. When entering the restaurant we are forced to waist some time observing the elegant cellaret that serves as entry to the dining room, because of the quality of the nectars and the way they’re placed.

At the dining room the decoration searches influence from the American chic, with simplest elements and some irreverent details, such as the lamps and the central zone in a circular shape. The tables are perfectly arranged, making it difficult for you to be disturbed by the conversation on the side. Another element, and probably the most remarkable is the kitchen open to the dining room, allowing the guests to accompany the making of the dishes and all the backstage action.

Already seated we made a toast with Champagne Fleury Pinot Blanc, a rare champagne of limited production, different caste, natural and bio-dynamic production, very good.  Meanwhile the first appetizers arrived to the table, indicating that something good could come from that kitchen, highlight to the technique and presentation of the miniatures, especially the foie lollipop and the carrot with passion fruit and sesame. Followed a nice Brittany butter (loved the stone base) and a nice selection of breads, with the spotlight on the cereal bread and the buckwheat baguette.


We continued the meal at a good pace, with the amuse bouche, fennel in various textures, spotlight to the foam and toasted black bread with seaweed butter. The flavors worked well leaving us with the taste buds ready for the meal.

Scampi, fish jelly, avocado, radish and osserta caviar

Visually perfect, the scampi loin was poached and cooled to the right spot, giving it an excellent texture. The limpid fish and shellfish broth was transformed into a thin jelly with spicy notes, connecting all the elements and helping to rise the dish. Great start.

To harmonize, the friendly sommelier chose a Calligramme 2011, Domaine of Bellivière, a Jasnières wine that went well with its elegance and citrus notes.

Jerusalem Artichokes, black truffle jam, crispy buckwheat with hazelnut and black truffles
Jerusalem Artichokes/Topinambour is certainly one of the most appreciated roots by the French chefs and present in almost all the menus. Here it is matched in a way to join two worlds, the poor and the rich cuisine, with the adding of the excellent jam and the wide truffle slices. When tasted together, the topinambour loses some of the main role against the truffles and the hazelnut.

This dish went very well with a risky choice, an Assyrtiko 2012, Gaia from the region of Santorini, a different wine, with smoked notes and an amazing minerality.

Abalone, seaweed vinegar, artichoke, black rice and miso
A particularly happy dish with elements from the French and Japanese cuisines, both appreciative of the shellfish. Very good game of textures and flavors created by the chef in this dish.

To go with, a less interesting wine, Clos Bellane Les Echalas 2009, a white from the Rhône region, not at level of the former ones, didn’t add anything to the dish.

Turbot, bottarga, edamame, baby fennel, dried tomato and anise foam
A dish with big texture contrasts. Spot-on fish and the anise foam, together with the bottarga gave some strength to a dish with soft flavors.

Went well with a Riesling 2010, Le Dragon of Josmeyer, an excellent wine from the Alsace region.

Rump of veal, sweetbreads, caramelized onion, potato croquette and black truffle
Juicy meat, cooked with mastery. Lamb sweetbreads crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. A dish of the region, worked well connecting all the elements, which was accomplished by an amazing mushroom sauce and another one made with the lamb juices and of course by the presence of the excellent quality truffle, elevating the dish to another level. I can’t skip on commenting the Laguiole knives, that always leave me with a child’s look on the toy section.

Harmonizing with a Marques de Morietta, Dalmau 2007, an amazing red wine from Rioja, which tannins, acidity and complexity helped to a perfect marriage.

Followed the cheese plate with a fantastic selection of Marie Quatrehomme (the first woman to achieve the title of Meilleur Ouvrier of France and owner of one of the best cheese stores in the city), an impressive list, making the choice harder to make, but we were helped by an expert that explained all the details and features of each one. I opted by the great Comté of Marcel Petite and an amazing Charolais from Burgundy.

As pre dessert was served a dulce de leche with mango and tarragon gel and caramel ice cream with salted butter. A nice set that created expectations about the quality of the next desserts.

Citrus tart
It is certainly not the usual citrus tart, here presented with base in several ingredients made with different citrus types. Buddha’s hand, Sicily lemon and Mexican lemon were some of the citrus, very well combined with perfect balance of sweetness and acidity. A great way to finish the meal.

To go with, a Kracher Nouvelle Vague 2006, nº8, its orange notes, lemon, caramel and spices were an excellent companion to the dessert. Very good wine.

Chocolate “Janus”, Piemonte hazelnut, caramel
Visually perfect, everything turns around the great quality chocolate and its integration with the hazelnut. A delicate and tasty dessert.

Went well with a Pedro Ximenez, Emilio Hidalgo.

The service was flawless, whether in the timings of a long meal, in the care given to the presentation of each dish and of course to the small details. With the requirement levels of the classic French service, they’re able not to be invasive, being easygoing and having genuine sympathy. High score for the excellent work of the Sommelier that was able to harmonize very well all the dishes of the menu, with less obvious choices and some surprises.

Looking at the open kitchen, we’re confronted with a play, perfectly rehearsed, silent beyond the usual “Oui Chef”, where the first row of the chefs table becomes an unique experience.

Final Remarks
The Jean-François Rouquette cuisine reflects a more modern style of the French cuisine, with a different products choice, more unusual elements and slightly more affordable prices than some of the other restaurants of the most luxurious hotels in town. A style that reflects not only in the kitchen but also in the decoration and in the relationship with the clients, a modern luxury, let’s put it this way. It is without a doubt a space that gives us more than a meal, but a complete experience hard to forget. About the stars, the second one is coming late, but will surely arrive.

Park Hyatt – Paris Vendôme – Restaurant Pur’

+331 5871 1060
5 Rue de la Paix, Paris

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