As I said in some previous articles, the Czech cuisine doesn’t have a huge international fame. Whether for its traditional cooking techniques or the use of some heavier ingredients in the composition of its dishes. The combat against this paradigm has been the challenge of the new generations of Chefs and Restauranteurs in Prague. One of those Restauranteurs is Sanjiv Suri, an Indian entrepreneur who’s making a mark in the city with his restaurants.
His masterpiece is this Bellevue, located in a former palace, with an Art Nouveau design, and an astonishing view over the Charles Bridge and the Castle of Prague that gives the name to the restaurant.
Already inside, we were warmly welcomed and guided to one of the small rooms of the restaurant, elegantly decorated with more contemporary details, where the spotlight literally goes to the beautiful chandeliers (bad for photographs, but gorgeous), creating a good cosmopolitan environment in contrast with the view over the classic spots of Prague.
Amuse bouche
At our table (wide and with the correct distance to the remaining tables), we are welcomed with a toast of Bollinger Special Cuvée, a great level champagne that accompanied the Amuse Bouche, a comforting Pumpkin cream with ricotta ravioli, pine nuts and truffle oil, showing the strong influence of the Italian and French flavors in the restaurant’s cuisine – a good start of meal in terms of an Autumn menu, in a quite cold night.
Followed the bread, where the highlight was the great focaccia, moist and coming right out the oven, good butter and olive oil.
Duck Foie Gras Tureen, smoked duck, hibiscus and citrus
A dish with a strong French nature, both in the ingredients and the presentation, with a well prepared tureen, served at the right temperature and working well with the acidic notes of the citrus, and the texture and flavor of the smoked duck. The hibiscus sauce gave some sweetness and connected all the elements; Accompanying was a good brioche.
To go with, the company for this Foie couldn’t have been more classic, a Sauternes, Château Closiot from 2010. An elegant and complex wine, with white flower aromas, orange peel and spices that connected perfectly with the dish.
Scallops, pea puree, cauliflower, Romanesco broccoli and Parmesan foam
I confess I’m not a big fan of combining cheese and sea products, but from time to time I’m surprised with some exceptions that prove the rule. This was one of those exceptions, with the light Parmesan foam giving some complexity to a dish of soft flavors. Well-cooked scallops, as well as the pea puree, the Romanesco broccoli and the cauliflower that gave dimension to the dish. Very good!
Harmonizing was, and very well, a Czech Chardonnay, Mystery 2013, of the producer Zapletal. A wine elegantly marked by wood, with sweet and roasted notes.
Sea Bass, mashed potatoes with herbs, bok choy and capers vouloté
A dish that completely fills my taste, with the fish having crispy skin and succulent meat, very well accompanied by the more acidic and bitter notes of the vouloté, where the highlight went to the lemon, the anchovy and the capers. Also good the freshness of the fennel and the radish, as well as the bok choy (Asian cabbage) and the mash that brought more substance to the dish.
Accompanying, a cup of Gruner Veltliner 2014 of Ernst Fink; A wine with the typical features of the caste, harmonious with a long ending.
Czech saddle of Venison, foie gras, savoy cabbage and topinambour
For the main course, one of the most appreciated game meats in Czech Republic, venison, in a true autumn dish. Excellent cooking of the meat and foie and good connection with the topinambour puree and the sautéed cabbage. The least positive note was the sauce, with a basis of red wine reduction and sweetbrier rose, which given the quantity and strength overlapped the remaining elements.
In the glass a Zweigeltrebe 2013 of the small producer Milan Sùkal, which body and structure worked well with the dish.
Followed a palate cleanser with a Pineapple, bergamot sorbet and litchi foam basis, a pre dessert with freshness and acidity that worked really nicely breaking the stronger and unctuous flavors from the last course.
Baileys Brûlée, tropical fruits
To finish, a classic dessert and deceptively simple that however revealed to be one of the best Brûlées I ever tasted, not only for the well accomplished flavor with a light addiction of baileys, but much because of its truly silky texture. Accompanying the sweet, a combination of fruits (pineapple, mango, papaya, passion fruit and pomegranate) that gave freshness to the dish. A great ending!
The harmonization was made with yet another classic, and well accomplished, with a 2011 Monbazillac, from Chateau Castel La Pèze.
Having made the harmonization with wines from the tasting menu we ended up not seeing the wine list, but judging by the exposed cellar in the room the list is extensive, focusing in wines of the old world, especially the locals and a wide list of French wines.
The Service went very well, formal enough, with a well prepared team, genuinely friendly (not the usual in Prague) and with a perfect English.
Final Remarks
Bellevue is a restaurant with an international nature, pleasing not only tourists looking for a good table in Prague, but also the locals that filled the restaurant when we visited. The cuisine presents creations with a classic basis, good technical domain and excellent ingredients. Dishes full of flavor and an excellent service make this one of the best restaurants in town- this to introduce the view cliché. If the red guide is thinking of reinforcing the number of stars in Prague, Bellevue will certainly be on the front row.
Bellevue
Smetanovo nábř. 18 – Prague
+420 222 221 443
bellevue@zatisigroup.cz
Photos: Flavors & Senses with Sony A7S
Disclaimer
We were at Bellevue by invitation of the Zátiší group, whereas this not alter our work, being the opinion and the text of the exclusive responsibility of the author.