A partnership between the luxurious hotel Kempinski Corvinus and Roy Zsiday, an important restaurateur from Budapest, gave origin, in April 2013, to the És Bisztró.
“És” meaning “and” in Hungarian, an expression that recreates quite well the desired concept implemented to the space, creating an environment that mixes the relaxation of a French Bistrô with an American Steakhouse, a Deli and a coffeeshop, all with good taste details.
The decoration was extremely well accomplished in that mix of elements not always easy to imagine together. A good use of the wood, with white walls, lined with animal motifs and animated and catching lettrings.
On the counter, an elegant refrigerator shows, almost as the piece key of the decoration, the several saturated meat cuts, served with detail and rigour.
Seeing a Languiole knife over the table always means something good is going to happen, or almost!
Already nicely installed, in a wide and comfortable table, we are received with a good butter, at the right temperature, and an unusual bread, right off the oven, made in vase shaped clay.
Traditional Hungarian charcuterie, foie gras and goat cheese
To start our trip to Budapest, nothing better than tasting some of its traditions, being the charcuterie and the foie gras some of the highlights. Good prosciutto and chorizo, quite similar, in terms of seasoning, to the Spanish ones, the Hungarians are crazy for Paprika. Also good, the duck tureen and the delicate goose foie, as well as the fresh goat cheese accompanying. An excellent start!
Harmonizing was a light and fresh white of the Tokaji region, the Mad’ 2014 of the Furmint caste with excellent minerality, proper of the vineyards of the Mad village.
Tafelspitz
As main course, one of the imports the Hungarians made during the times of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the Tafelspitz, a comfort dish, served at És in three times, with pomp and circumstance. First we consume the meat broth, clear, with no sign of greasiness and full of flavor! Also good the perfectly cooked vegetables. Delicious!
For the second part, we take off the marrow of the pan and spread it over toasted bread. Perfect!
To finish, the boiled meat with rosti potato, spinach cream and a spicy-horseradish sauce with apple. I’m not a fan of boiled viel, so I wasn’t seduced by this last part, although it tasted good and wasn’t overcooked, like it usually happens. High score to the sides.
On the glass, a Syrah of 2011, Sauska. A wine of complex aromas and spicy notes, with round tannins and a long ending.
“Rigó Jancsi” Chocolate
To finish an already large and long meal, a chocolate mousse inspired in the Hungarian cake that steals the name of Rigó Jancsi, a gipsy musician who lived a burning passion with Clara Ward, princess of Caraman-Chimay. A light and well prepared mousse, with the sugar very well balanced with the freshness of the raspberries in 3 textures, fresh, as a sauce and in spheres. A lovely ending!
The service is casual and fun, with time to one or another joke or a lesson of the history and culture of the Hungarian gastronomy.
Final Remarks
És Bisztró manages to bring informality and a relaxed atmosphere to a luxury hotel, without neglecting the quality of the offer. The dishes are a nice fusion of the Hungarian gastronomy with the new tendencies of the steakhouses and bistrôs. It is for sure a place to take in account when planning to visit Budapest and if you want to associate the haute cuisine with a relaxed environment, right in the center of town.
És Bisztró
Deák Ferenc utca 12, Hotel Kempinski Corvinus – Budapest
(+36-1) 429 3990
info@esbisztro.hu
Photos: Flavors & Senses with Sony A7S
Disclaimer
We were at És Bisztró by invitation of the Kempinski Group, whereas this not alter our work, being the opinion and the text of the exclusive responsibility of the author.