Launching a new harvest is always motive to party and celebrate, time for tastings and presentations, hustle and anxiety. But also time to enjoy, even more when it’s about a great wine, of inescapable name and of course, of a producer like Symington.
Symington is one of those companies in which no detail is left to chance, so it wasn’t for nothing they chose the starred Pedro Lemos to present one of their most recent harvests from Quinta do Vesuvio, the 2014.
About the chef there’s not much I haven’t yet said here, those who accompany the blog know about my admiration for his work and the mastery he has with the ingredients, elevating their flavor, without masks or make up.
So, the motto for one of those irrecusable invitations was set, the cuisine of Pedro Lemos and the always stimulating wines of Vesuvio.
To start, nothing like an always right Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 2008, an 8 years old Champagne, still a child full of vivacity, classic aromas, almond, brioche, white flowers and fresh citrus. Accompanying, tomato, mozzarella and tapioca, an amuse bouche combining texture and freshness, in a classic combo of flavors.
Pork, clam and prawn from Algarve
Already at the table, the welcoming of the chef arrives in a kind of trip between Alentejo and Algarve, or between Earth and Sea, if you prefer. Succulent meat and perfectly cooked, raw prawn and sweet as it should. But what takes us to another level here is the broth, a depth of flavor in which you can perfectly tell the strong and greasy flavor of the pork and the delicacy and depth of the seafood. Nicely finished by the freshness kick of the pickle. A great dish!
Squid filled with Portuguese flavors, scarlet shrimp broth
Here is once again the unmasked cuisine of Pedro Lemos, a deceptively simple squid, cooked to perfection and nicely paired with the strong flavors of the filling, with the intensity of our smoked sausage goods and the sea flavor of the rich broth. If it wasn’t for a tiny bit of sand in the squid it would’ve been perfection all over again!
Harmonizing was the youngest element of the family Pombal do Vesuvio 2014*.
Beef, Celery and Chanterelle mushrooms
For main course, Pedro Lemos chose beef as protein, presenting it in three textures and cuts, tongue, tail and maturated meat carpaccio, nicely matched by celery textures, chanterelles and chives, with a rich and delicious sauce, as usual. Very, very good!
On the glass, the great reason of this “meeting”, Quinta do Vesuvio 2014**.
Strawberry, basil, lemon foam, and vodka gel
Time for the first sweet moment of lunch – strawberry granita, sorbet and sauce, freah and natural flavors, very well paired with the basil cream and the foam. The vodka notes give extra dimmension to the dish.
Harmonizing was, as expected, the reason for Quinta do Vesuvio’s fame, Port wine, this time with a Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage 1995. A balanced wine, mature with spice notes and an interesting nose, still showing some fruit. An easy and elegant vintage!
Blue Cheese, Pear, chocolate and nuts
To finish, and accompanying the “surprise” of the night, Pedro Lemos decided to recreate in a dessert some of the classic Port wine combinations, like the drunk pears, the chocolate or the Stilton. Blue cheese ice cream, dark chocolate from São Tomé, drunk pear and pear gel finished with caramelized nut. Very, very good and a great pair to the Port Vintage Dow’s from 1963.
A mythical year for Port wine, where this Dow’s is no exception, going through its best phase, with a captivating acidity and a long and deep ending, the notes flow between dry fruits, some flower and tobacco. Rich and delicious!
It was for sure a memorable lunch, which – like it was even necessary – proved the great shape of Pedro Lemos these days, the “master of flavor”, allied to noble wines, well tought and executed that only help defining Douro while great region of DOC wines.
* Pombal do Vesuvio 2014
This Pombal presents more Touriga Nacional than the previous lots, so there are also more evident notes of violet accompanied by wild fruits and some vegetable. In the mouth the wine is round, ready to consume, well integrated wood, rich in dark fruit without the jam’s weight, light chocolate and pepper notes adding some pleasant details. A great wine, with one of the best quality/price ratios in its range.
**Quinta do Vesuvio 2014
Here also predominates the Touriga Nacional, in a lot that combines also a careful selection of Touriga Franca and Tinta Amarela (the same castes gathered in the Pombal), the result being a young wine, which in medium term will live its best shape. A wine with the classic Douro aromas, some balsamic and lots of fruit. In the mouth, highlight to its structure, enthralling acidity and tasty fruit. A great wine, a great Douro to buy and save, the future promises lots and better moments of pleasure!
Pedro Lemos
Rua do Padre Luís Cabral, 974 – Porto
+351 220 11 59 86
Text: João Oliveira | Photos: Flavors & Senses
Disclaimer
We were at the presentation of Quinta do Vesuvio by invitation from Symington, whereas this not alter our work, being the opinion and the text of the exclusive responsibility of the author.