Another edition of Vinum’s gastronomical event, the restaurant of Graham’s Port Lodge operated in parternship between Symington and the Basque group Sagardi. An event that respects the best Basque tradition, consisting in the celebration and presentation of a unique meat, old ox meat (over 13 years old, and more than 1300 kg).
If last year (see) the surprise was a presentation video about the animals and their creator, this year they decided to put the guests to work, with a masterclass in which Inaki Viñaspre (Sagardi) and Imanol Jaca (Txogitxu – responsible for buying the animals) explained all the process and care they have from choosing the animal, the maturation time and of course, all the secrets to domain the grill, the salt and the temperature.
Imanol Jaca and Inaki Viñaspre
The masterclass was an interesting moment and we were able to clarify some doubts, know details and of course, try in first hand the deliciousness we would have for lunch. Highlight to the romantic vision of Imanol who says that “the breed of the animal is not important, important is knowing its creator and the care and love he treats it with and how he feeds his cattle”.
Then we went to the room where we started with the usual, very well prepared, Tonic Port, while chitchatting a bit and waiting for the remaining guests to arrive.
Already at the table, where once again the always interesting bread of Vinum and the olive oil from Quinta do Ataíde were shining, after, a small joyful game by Imanol, an old ox meat cured in salt for about a month in a similar process to the prosciutto.
Codfish, White beans and clams
Followed one of the already famous classics of Vinum, a tasty and flavorful white bean stew with clams and an half cured codfish, in a style of rich soup. Perfect cooking, delicate and interesting combination of the sea flavor and the earth flavor of the beans with a delicious broth. A great start!
Accompanying was, almost in a premier style, the new Quinta do Ataíde 2014, a blend with the typical castes of Douro, planted in the unusual region of Vale da Vilariça. A wine prepared for consumption, promising some joy to those who save it. Forest fruit, complexity, a good use of wood and interesting notes of spices and acidity. A new and interesting Douro wine.
Ox large chop, roasted piquillo peppers
Sneakily it’s time for the King to pay a visit to our table. I confess the meat served last year is still in my memory, and although I shouldn’t compare, this one wasn’t at the same level. However, still one of the best meats I had this year, prefectly grilled, delicate and soft flavor, with rich and delicious fat.
I would say it just lacked a bit of the dairy and herbaceous flavor I love and that the previous piece had. High score to the piquillos, already a tradition, with good balance of flavors and correct texture, with their sweetness matching very well with the meat.
On the glass, another of the new releases from Symington, Quinta do Ataíde Vinha do Arco 2014, a single caste of Touriga Nacional. The wine is produced with the best Touriga planted for over 30 years at Vale da Vilariça and that served as basis for many of the Touriga that exists in Douro these days. A quite young wine but already showing great evolution and pleasure potential. With details outside the usual Touriga from Douro, fruit of the soil difference, temperatures and geographical of the vale. Another great bet of Symington!
Stilton and National cheeses
Followed some national cheeses, hald cured sheep cheese, and another more aged and spicy, and of course the always interesting Stilton, impossible to find in our markets.
As company, of course, a Port, with a Graham’s Vintage from 1977, a classic of the house that I fortunately tasted in seveal ocasions and always fulfills the requirements of a great vintage, seductive, complex and intriguing in several aspects. The perfect companion to the Stilton!
The menu (78€ + wine supplement 29€) is available until the 11th of December, well, when the chops are over, the menu is over!
It’s not cheap, for sure, but it’s the price to pay for a rare meat, treated with care and appreciation, and also, of course, for the cooking rigor and the excellence of the space.
If you are curious and want to taste this meat, the best is to put the 2017 edition in your schedules!
Restaurante Vinum
Rua do Agro nº 141 (Graham’s Port Lodge), Gaia
+351 220 930 417
Text: João Oliveira | Photos: Flavors & Senses
Disclaimer
– We were at the presentation of the IV Jornadas do Boi de Trás-Os-Montes by invitation from Symington,whereas this not alter our work, being the opinion and the text of the exclusive responsibility of the author.
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