Cervejaria Brasão

brasao - 1

Before talking about the restaurant, I must admit I cherish a particular respect for the work of Sérgio Cambas, the young entrepreneur that a few years ago took an ambiance restaurant, theoretically outmoded and located in an area nobody wanted to go to, and transformed it into Paparico, our Restaurant of the Year in 2014 (see). Sérgio is a chef, sommelier, cicerone and entrepreneur and does all that in the most correct and effective way,  so the opening of another space with his signature created high expectations.

Going downtown was certainly something he aspired to, therefore opening a Cervejaria (a beer house), to the image of some of the most emblematic names in town. But only the concept is similar, here there are no strong lights, but a good illumination instead, we don’t feel the cold from the stainless that was substituted by the intensive use of wood, transporting us to a comfortable environment we can’t find in any other cervejaria. Resuming, the decoration of the space was very well accomplished.

On to what really matters, and after well installed, we started our meal with a good quality bread (2€), a great prosciutto butter (0.70€), some crunchy and tasty rice leaves with oregano (1€), nicely seasoned olives and capers (2€) and a nice spicy cream.

brasao - 7Oysters, cucumber and lime (16€)
As to the starters, some beautiful and well cleaned national oysters arrived to the table. To go with, and very well, thin slices of cucumber and lime whose freshness and acidity combined very well with the oyster. Very good!

brasao - 6Sautéed Oyster mushrooms and asparagus in prosciutto ping, egg yolk (6,5€)
Mushrooms, eggs, asparagus and fat are, and always will be, a prodigious combination. Here with all the elements nicely seasoned and perfectly cooked, I just missed a little bit more sauce, or (and that would be perfect) another egg yolk to connect all the elements better.

brasao - 5Sirloin steak with mushrooms (17€)
A good and generous sirloin steak served at the correct point and covered with a delicate sauce of thin champignon mushroom slices with the perfect texture and greasiness for the dish. Accompanying, excellent and crunchy sliced potato fries and a beautiful and colorful salad. Thus living up to the name of beer house!

brasao - 4Francesinha (9€ – with egg 9,50€)
I’m not the biggest consumer, not even the biggest fan of this iconic dish from Porto, but, still, from time to time there comes the will to enter the “evil ways”. Here, the result was great; the sauce had the right flavor, spicy enough, with the right texture and not overlapping the remaining flavors of the dish. Nicely melted cheese, tender and tasty steak and the delicate sausage and linguiça, which origin is known right away. A francesinha very well accomplished that easily enters my top choices.

Positive note also to the good fries and to the gravy boat that automatically appears at the table.

brasao - 2Moist chocolate cake with pistachio ice cream (4,5€)
A classic chocolate fondant, sweet and with the right texture; the ice cream was also good, although I would prefer this cake with a more acidic, without cream, ice cream.

brasao - 3Banana Cheesecake with caramel (3,5€)
A presentation worthy of another type of restaurant, a dessert very well accomplished. Cheese tart, tasty without the usual excess gelatin and just enough sweet; excellent banana cream and also the caramel and chocolate details that not only improve the dish’s flavor but also its texture. Great ending!

Accompanying the meal, an artisanal Sovina pressure beer and the nice Allo of 2013, from Soalheiro (12€).

Before talking about the Service, a quick remark to the beautiful tableware used, hand-painted to the good and old style of Viana, which by itself gives a particular charm.

About the Service I could either say a lot or nothing at all, given the perfect way the meal occurred, with a unique sympathy and almost surgical attention, to the good image of its creator. Something rare, particularly when taking in account it is still a recent project. Certainly you won’t find a similar service in any other beer house in the city.

Final Remarks
Brasão is another winning bet from Sérgio Cambas, mixing the Yuko experience with the technique and service from Paparico. The decoration breaks all barriers in a rustic contemporary style and the cuisine often transports us to a different style of restaurant. It is certainly a place many will visit for its francesinha, but that is and will always be more than that.

See you soon!

Cervejaria Brasão
Rua Ramalho Ortigão, 28 Porto
934 158 672

Text: João Oliveira | Photos: Flavors & Senses

Versão Portuguesa

This entry was posted in Restaurants and tagged , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. Post a comment or leave a trackback: Trackback URL.

Post a Comment

Your email is never published nor shared. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <s> <strike> <strong>




    Seeing the World with

    Travelling with

    In the Company of

  • Meta