Le Fumoir – Georges Hotel Galata

Georges - 12Georges Hotel Galata is a small hotel that brings the best Cosmopolitan Luxury to the region of Galata (Gold List 2015 of Condé Nast Traveler). From the interesting location to the cozy decoration, the main focus of this space is the attention to the client and its personalized service. Managed by a French in love with Istanbul, the Hotel’s restaurant had to be all about Gallic cuisine.

The cuisine idealized by Alex Varlik and his Chef Clarisse Muge Özden intends to recreate a relaxed environment, in a modern Bistro style with a view over the Bosphorus, the best from the traditional French cuisine, like a granny would cook to her grandchildren.

Georges - 11Well settled in the sofas of the nice room on top of the Hotel, delighted with the view (pity we couldn’t enjoy the balcony because of the cold), we started our meal, as it should, with good bread, slightly toasted, and butter.

Georges - 1Escargots, parsley and garlic butter

If the idea is classics and “simple” comforting cooking, then we couldn’t have started in a better way. Small escargots, perfectly cooked and with nice flavor. As to my taste they could had a bit more butter (my nutritionist doesn’t read my blog)!

To go with, a nice Chardonnay, Urla 2013 from the Izmir region.

Georges - 2Smoked Salmon

Well prepared classic, good quality fish, slightly smoked; went very well with the toasted bread.

To accompany, another Turkish wine, from Domaine Umurbey, a Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Tekirdağ, a wine with the usual caste characteristics, well balanced body and acidity, which worked very well with the Salmon.

Georges - 4Scallops, vanilla Jerusalem artichoke puree

A visually appealing dish, with flawlessly cooked scallops. The puree was also good, with the vanilla well integrated, not overpowering the other flavors; also good the integration of the texture and sweetness of the peas and the lightness brought by the orange. Very good.

Georges - 5Lamb leg, Potato puree with hazelnut

Another visually appealing dish, using one of the main Turkish ingredients, the Lamb. Succulent meat, falling apart, with good flavor and a delicate and greedy sauce. Positive note also to the puree with the integration of the hazelnut and the vegetables al dente. Delicious.

Georges - 6To go with, a bit of Portugal, directly from Douro a Pombal do Vesúvio 2009 from Symington (the wines from Quinta do Vesúvio were our company during this trip to Istanbul), a perfect harmonization.

Georges - 8Cheese plate

A French restaurant without cheese would never really be considered one. Camembert, Petit Chevrot, Comté and Roquefort were the selected ones, in a dose so big it would be enough to feed a family (in reality it served us two, and I don’t remember any leftovers). Good quality cheeses, served at the right temperature, with highlight to the Petit Chevrot and the Comté.

Georges - 9Tart Tatin

A simple ending, with one of the most familiar desserts of the Gallic menus. Well prepared, good base and the fruit on spot, with good caramelization and without the usual excess sweetness.

The Service was of an extreme sympathy (and genuine), calm and relaxed as the space requires.

Georges - 10Final Remarks

Le Fumoir is a restaurant that represents in its fullness the spirit of the Hotel it is inserted in, good service, relaxed and informal environment, but with all the small luxuries (that whether we like it or not, make all the difference). The view of the restaurant over the city and the Bosphorus are the first invite to go there, then, the cuisine of young Clarisse, without jugglery, uncomplicated, and comforting with good ingredients, makes us want to come back. No, it is not the best French restaurant outside the country, but it also doesn’t aspire to it, it wants to be a honest space with good food, something like taking an old lady from Burgundy to cook in a nice and luxurious loft in New York. And because of that, a visit is more than worth it!

Le Fumoir – Georges Hotel Galata
Serdar-I Ekrem Sokak No:24 Galata – Beyoğlu – Istanbul
+90 212 244 2423

Pombal do Vesúvio 2009 with the support of  Symington Family


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