SRI LANKA – Religion, Teas, and Jungle – Part II

By Flavors and Senses | Published: April 25, 2023

Dalada Maligawa

Kandy – the religious heart of Sri Lanka!

Kandy is known as the capital of mountains. The city stands out for its beauty and for being the heart of the country in terms of religion. This is where we can find the Dalada Maligawa – an architectural complex made of pink pavilions with red roofs where the Temple of the Tooth of Buddha is located, the most important place of worship for Buddhists.

In addition, we can also find other religious buildings that stand out, such as the Temple of Kataragama, the Temple of Vishnu, the Temple of Pattini, the Temple of Natha Devala, as well as the Monastery of Asigiriya with a huge library and the Monastery of Malwata.

But let’s focus on the most important temple in the country: The Temple of Sacred Tooth Buda Relic.
The Sacred Tooth Relic is (supposedly) the right canine tooth of Gautama Buddha, the 28th Buddha, cremated in India around the 5th century BC, and brought to Sri Lanka

The Temple complex is imposing but is loaded with tourists as it is the most visited site in the country. It is a real bustle of local people, tourists, and monks! This temple was built in 1592 by King Vimaladharmasooriya I, having already been renovated, restored, and expanded.

On the shores of Lake Kandy, this complex comprises the Royal Palace of Kandy, which currently operates as a museum, the courtroom of the court of Sri Lanka, where they still held official ceremonies today, the National Museum of Kandy, the Buddhist Museum, and an octagonal area that is currently a library.

Right at the entrance is a corridor flanked by gardens and statues, and from here, it is possible to admire all the beauty of the complex.
The main attraction – the Sacred Tooth – is found inside seven bell-shaped objects used to store essential artifacts that we can find in the Handun Kunama shrine. This shrine is in a courtyard surrounded by the accommodation buildings of the resident monks and decorated with a golden roof.

Supposedly somebody took this relic from the remains of the Buddha after he was cremated around the 5th century BC. Centuries later, they brought it to Sri Lanka. The Sacred Tooth is worshiped three times a day by several monks – morning, midday, and evening.

After seeing the most significant relic of the country, it was time to stop for lunch. And for that, nothing better than local food in a market for locals and not for tourists!

Very close to the temple complex, there is a small market with various specialties from the country, very traditional and very authentic. Parveen recommended it to us, even though we had already read about it.

Obviously, as soon as they arrive at the place, they think: “Hmmm, this is going to be a mess, but well, let’s try it!”.

 

Anyone who knows me and reads our articles already knows that I love to try everything and that, unfortunately, I always get sick, but I keep doing the same, and in fact, I think I will do it forever! João and I shared a series of dishes, and it felt like life. Friendly and genuine people, low prices, good food, and an authentic experience!
Needless to say, four hours later, I was vomiting my soul (but I assure you that if I could go back, I would try everything again!).

After the market, we spent the afternoon learning about Tea at one of the biggest producers in Sri Lanka – Blue Field Tea Factory, located between Kandy and Nuwara Eliya.

Blue Field Tea Factory

This place is one of the most popular tea factories in the country, controlling a large property around it and producing high-quality tea that is appreciated all over the world. When visiting the Bluefield Tea Factory, it is possible to walk along some of the plantations and visit the factory itself, following the entire tea manufacturing process. Ending the visit at the shop where we not only taste the tea but also buy it. Which, of course, we did!

Não percam uma visita a uma das plantações de chá e provem sempre que puderem! Digamos que o chá e as suas plantações estão para o Sri Lanka como o douro e o vinho está para Portugal!

Dia preenchido merecia um hotel histórico – escolhemos o Heritance Tea Factory com um autêntico cenário de fábrica antiga, que quase nos remeteu para a
mágica e excêntrica fábrica de chocolate de Willy Wonka! O cenário já era perfeito mas foi levado ao expoente máximo quando no dia a seguir acordamos
acima das nuvens (o hotel fica no alto de Nuwara Eliya) com o mais belo nascer do sol de sempre!

The most exciting sunrise I’ve ever experienced.

Field workers at Heritance Tea Factory

Having the privilege of witnessing the best sunrises and sunsets ever in just one trip is to be commended!

I’ve been in Sri Lanka for four days, and I’m falling more and more in love with this country and its people. Today was the day to take what is considered the most scenic train trip in the world (forgive me who said this, but I’ve never taken a train trip through the Douro, that’s for sure!). We took the train from Nuwara Eliya to Ella, believing that this was going to be one of the highlights of our trip. But honestly, it wasn’t.

Train station at Nuwara Eliya

I love trains, it’s probably my favorite means of transport, so when we decided to include this trip in our itinerary, my expectations skyrocketed. What did I already tell you about expectations?! Then! Control them, always!!!

Tickets must be bought in advance; they have second and first class and all the articles on the internet advise you to choose the second class because the first one has air conditioning and supposedly afterward they won’t let you open the windows or go to the doors to better see the landscape! Forget it!

First class

Buy first! Which, in reality, is not first-class seats; it is equal to the second! The only difference is that they have a place for you where you can put your stuff and sit down whenever you want to sit down! In the second class, it’s basically chaos!

Yes, you can open the windows (because the air conditioning is a poorly functioning fan hanging from the ceiling!), you can get up and go to the door to see the landscape, you can do anything, in fact! The journey on a normal train would take about 45 minutes, but on this one, as we are going at 10km/h, it takes about 3.5 hours! When I say 10km/h, I’m not exaggerating; in some areas, you can go out with it in motion, photograph places, and get back in!

As for the landscape, as I tell you, I much prefer my Douro! I don’t think we had the opportunity to see the best landscapes in Sri Lanka. I expected much more. I thought we were going to contemplate that incredible image of the Bridge of Nine Arches, but no. Perhaps our mistake in choosing the route; we should have taken the trip from Kandy to Ella and not from Nuwara Elyia to Ella. But honestly, 3h30min already reached me; the longest is about 7h!

Waterfall in Ella

Well, with this adventure over, it was time to head to the jungle! Yes, true to the jungle! In the amazing Leopard’s Safari!
Anyone who reads my articles knows my passion for safaris and especially for Leopards; if you don’t know, run and read this article. (&beyond Ngala).

We wanted to visit Yala National Park, and for that, there was no better place than Leopard’s Safari, which is very close to the park. We arrived in the afternoon, and I felt so at home that I didn’t want to do anything else that day but explore this little luxury retreat right in the middle of the jungle!


But for that, you better read the whole article about this magical place (here).

Versão Portuguesa

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SRI LANKA – The Millennial History – Part I

By Flavors and Senses | Published: January 6, 2023

Now that you know what you need to travel to Sri Lanka, let’s travel around this incredible country!

Sri Lanka is a country with an infinite cultural diversity.
The different ethnicities and immense history make Sri Lanka a very, very special place.
It is the birthplace of one of the oldest and purest strains of Buddhism – which makes it even more special to me, as I am so sympathetic to this religion.

Colombo, the ancient cities of Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Sigiriya – the country’s golden age – Kandy with its tea plantations, the Yala National Park, the fortified city of Galle and the beaches are more than enough reasons to fall in love with this country!

There were places I had put on the “not to be missed” list – the ancient cities of Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Sigiriya, the Kandy region, and a safari in Yala.

A walk in the historic ruins of Polonnaruwa

We divided our trip by regions.
We flew to Colombo (which is in the west) but from there we went straight to Dambulla which is in the central region near Sigiriya – a trip we already made with Parveen who had picked us up at Colombo airport, and which lasted about 4 hours .

Let’s start with the first three days, which were the hardest to discover the oldest and most historic cities in the country!

Dambulla Golden Temple
World Heritage since 1991, this site consisting of five caves with Buddhist temples forces you to climb huge steps (or so I thought, until I climbed Sigiriya and Pirudangala!) in rock to contemplate its beauty.
The most imposing image is the 15-meter reclining Buddha. The caves are imposingly decorated with gold and colorful frescoes with religious images.


This temple had its history marked by the refuge of King Valagam when he was expelled from Anuradhapura. Upon his return to the throne he had the site transformed into a sacred temple of worship.

Os main inhabitants of the temple

The stunning view of the Golden Temple was a small omen of what would turn out to be the rest of the trip

From here, and quite exhausted from the trip, we decided to head to the hotel where we would stay for the first few nights, the Jetwing Lake Dambulla Sri Lanka.

Sunset at the Jetwing pool

The following day we started very early on the adventure of visiting the two ancient cities – Sigiriya and Pollonnaruwa.

Starting the day climbing about 700 steps is just sick, right? But that’s precisely what we did!

Lion’s Rock in Sigiriya
The ruins of Sigiriya Palace, at the top of Lion’s Rock, are the country’s biggest attraction. Walking through gardens that were once an immense water distribution complex and an authentic city, the palace is only accessible to those willing to climb more than 700 steps.
This kingdom emerged in the 5th century, on top of a rock 375 meters high.

The king at his castle

The terrible Kassyapa killed his father to seize power. He ruled the kingdom for 18 years, but obviously, he had to take refuge in a place of difficult access in order not to be captured and killed. And so he decided to make a palace almost touching the sky! This historic and incredible complex is shaped like a lion, hence the name.
Right at the entrance we can see the gigantic paws of the lion.


Mas depois do desafio de chegar ao topo da rocha por umas escadas íngremes e rudimentares ficamos em modo perplexo tamanha é a beleza.
Na realidade, o Sri Lanka é de todos os países que já visitei o que tem as vistas mais impressionantes.
Como é possível há 2500 anos atrás terem a capacidade de construir um complexo no topo duma montanha com aquela grandeza e imponência?

But after the challenge of reaching the top of the rock by some steep and rudimentary stairs, we were in perplexed mode, such is the beauty.
In fact, Sri Lanka has the most impressive views of all the countries I’ve visited.
How is it possible 2500 years ago to have the ability to build a complex on top of a mountain with that grandiosity and lordliness?


Even before we reach the top, we have a plain as far as the eye can see, adorned with statues among the vegetation.
At the top of the rock, only the remains of what was once a grandiose and insane complex with gardens, fountains, royal pools, palace and temples remain. Obviously this complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

From here we head to Pollonnaruwa.

Pollonaruva is an architectural complex filled with palaces, bridges, meeting rooms, royal baths, monasteries, various temples and numerous Buddha statues.
It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1982.

Tip: take flip flops, espadrilles or flat sandals that are easy to remove. Whenever you enter sacred ground, you have to take off your shoes.
Also take shoulders and legs covered. As on the trip to Bali we had bought some beautiful Sarongs, we put them in our backpack and we use them all the time.

This complex is huge, consisting essentially of ruins, but which is perfectly perceived as an imposing and highly organized city from other times.

The ideal way to visit Pollonnaruwa is by bicycle or, as we did, with a driver. Why? Because the complex is gigantic and even the ticket office is extremely far from the complex itself!

We visit the Palace of King Nishshanka Malla which is located by Lake Bendiwewa, surrounded by lush gardens, but outside the archaeological complex of Polonnaruwa.

King Nishshanka Malla Palace
We also visit the Royal Palace, at the southern end of the ruins and its incredible friezes carved in stone with magnificent reliefs of elephants.
What I liked the most, and don’t ask me why, was the Sacred Quadrangle of Polonnaruwa. It is a compact group of ruins located on a small elevation of land, surrounded by a wall.

Sacred Quadrangle of Polonnaruwa

 

This complex is huge and takes a good two hours to visit.

Despite the craziness of the day, and the tiredness, and how funny we thought it was to start the day climbing 700 steps, we decided to end it the same way and went to what was one of our biggest surprises and challenges on this trip.
The mountain of Pidurangala!

Pidurangala

It’s not part of the usual Sri Lankan itineraries, but in addition to having read about the breathtaking views over Sigiriya, Parveen told us it was a must-see for the best sunset of our lives.

The easy part of the climb

Not being the usual stopping point, there are very few tourists visiting, which is great, as it becomes a unique experience.

There is a symbolic price to pay at the entrance, as in reality, in addition to this rock formation, the site is home to a temple with a reclining Buddha statue. The focus was not on the temple at all but on the top of the mountain and what would be the best sunset of my life.

Parveen accompanied us all the way, which gave us some confidence, since I didn’t know that, in reality, the journey was quite complicated!
The first part consists of very irregular stairs, rocky and clearly made by secular use. They are no longer easy stairs but they are easily climbable!

We couldn’t make it easier because the time of sunset was approaching and the mountain still takes a while to be traversed, especially if other people are coming down (there’s only one path and it’s not that spacious).

It was an incredible feeling, diving into the dense forest without knowing very well what was waiting for us. It’s just that it doesn’t really have a script. As I told you, it is not a place that is part of the usual places to visit, which is why nothing is organized in that sense. It is done under the responsibility of each one. I believe that the fact that I turned 36 that day enhanced the experience!

Along the way we found a small cave where another reclining Buddha, made of brick, rested.

Only at the end of the climb I realized that I did not know what I was going to do, definitely! Yes, it’s one thing to climb meander and difficult steps, another very different is to climb granite rocks!!!
I’m even a person who goes to the gym with a certain regularity, but that was quite exaggerated, besides being a bit the dangerous! The fact that Parveen was climbing with us has made a big difference.

Tip: wear sneakers and comfortable clothes on this day! You’re going to need it!

 

 The view from Sigiriya

Mas, na realidade, viam-se crianças a acompanhar os pais, por isso, se elas conseguiam eu também conseguia! Assumo que na última rocha a coisa não foi fácil, mas tive a ajuda doutros turistas que já se encontravam no topo e me puxaram.

Mas… mal percebi a dimensão do que se via do cimo de Pidurangala, todo aquele esforço se desvaneceu num ápice. Dum lado Sigiriya, e a toda a volta apenas verde, muito verde, muita floresta, muita natureza. O céu estava perfeito, o sol estava quase a pôr-se, e aquele momento foi, indubitavelmente, um dos mais perfeitos da minha vida.

But in reality, there were children accompanying their parents, so if they could, I could, too! I must say that in the last rock, things were not that easy, but I had the help of other tourists who were already at the top and pulled me.

But… As soon as I realized the dimension of what we could see from the top of Pidurangala, all that effort faded at a glance. On one side Sigiriya, and all around just green, very green, lots of forest, lots of nature. The sky was perfect, the sun was about to set, and that moment was undoubtedly one of the most perfect moments of my life.

A unique moment!

That day ended in an exemacity! It was time to rest because the next day the time would also be filled!
We stayed only 10 days in Sri Lanka, if we could have stayed much longer? We could, but like I told you, we have a clinic to run, and that limits us on time.

But these  10 days were immensely taken advantage of. It always makes me a bit crazy when I hear some people saying,
“oh, just for 8 days it’s not even worth going that far, these trips are three weeks at least. That’s why I’ve never been to these kind of countries!”
Convince yourself of one thing: time is the least of your problems! If I have the chance to travel and be happy for 10 days, I’m not going to do it because I should go three weeks?
Anyone who uses this as an argument does not like to travel or will never do so, but loves to issue their opinion on the subject!

With the ancient and historical region of the country seen it was time to lighten the trip and go to Kandy!

Versão Portuguesa

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Sri Lanka – everything you need to know before you travel

By Flavors and Senses | Published: December 19, 2022

Sigiriya

This article will have a very special place in my world, in this new post Covid-19 era. Our last adventure, or rather, the last adventure in travel format!

Sri Lanka has always been one of those dream destinations. It’s been part of my travel plans to Asia for as long as I can remember (thankfully, I’m only missing Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, Myanmar, Japan, Philippines… ok, let’s stop!).

We started preparing this trip towards the end of 2019, at a time when we were traveling through Paris and Istanbul (I have this sick habit of preparing the next destinations while still making the previous trip!). And we were thinking about March to do it, but at that time the clinic already has an unmanageable schedule (yes, our life is not just travelling, we have a medical clinic that gives us both, love and hard work). So, and thankfully, we decided to travel at the end of January around my birthday.

In March, chaos was already installed all over the world… and the rest of the story is already known!

But let’s focus on Sri Lanka and forget about this Pandemic that changed our lives, we are in 2022 and the world is now starting to show signs of a modest return to normality – it would be better if someone hadn’t decided to start a war now.. .


The breathtaking view of Nuwara-Eliya

Brief History

Sri Lanka’s history is at least 3000 years old, with evidence of prehistoric settlements dating back 125,000 years. The excellent geographical location and its ports made Sri Lanka a very important strategic point from the ancient Silk Road until the Second World War. Records say that in the 6th century BC, the Sinhalese people (or Sinhala) migrated to the island from India. Before that the island would have been occupied by Malays.

Vijaya is said to have been the first Sinhalese king, in 543 BC. and the first kingdom of Sri Lanka will have had its capital in Anuradhapura. In the 3rd century BC, the Sinhalese converted to Buddhism and the island became a center for Buddhist studies and missionary work. This religious conversion would have been the main cause of separation between Sri Lanka and the culture of South India.

Anuradhapura remained the capital of the Sinhalese kingdom until the 8th century, when it was replaced by Polonnaruwa.

  Some of Polonnaruwa ruins

From the south of India, the Tamils arrived on the island, starting intense conflicts with the Sinhalese people from the 3rd century onwards. For much of the first millennium, the island was controlled by several princes of Tamil origin. But in the 12th century one of the most important Sinhalese kings, Prakrama Bahu, defeated the Tamils, unifying the island under his rule.

In the 15th century, the island was attacked by China, and for thirty years, local kings paid tribute to the Chinese emperor.

The Portuguese, as always, played a leading role in the creation and development of this country, and much of our history is still felt in some areas of Sri Lanka as well as in their language.

We were the first Europeans to arrive there, in 1505 and we founded the city of Columbus in 1517, we took Christianity with us but from 1600 onwards we ended up being defeated by the Dutch who joined the local Buddhist people who hated us! However, as early as 1800 the British occupied Sri Lanka and introduced the cultivation of tea, coffee and rubber. This English occupation continued until 1948, when Sri Lanka became independent, leaving its mark on the people’s daily lives as well as on their culture.

A Civil War ensued again from 1983 to 2009 between Tamil guerrillas and the Sinhalese army.

Currently the country is going through a good period of development and peace (at least until it was devastated by this Pandemic).

the streets of Kandy

How to get to Sri Lanka, what to pack, and how to get there:

For Portuguese travelers know that there is no mandatory vaccine, obviously having already taken the Hepatitis A, B, Rabies, Typhoid Fever and Japanese Encephalitis can be interesting. We’ve traveled around Asia quite a bit so we already had most of them. For travelers from places with risk of transmission of Yellow Fever, it is mandatory to take this vaccine.

As for Malaria, the risk of contracting it is extremely low.

But, I advise you to do the Traveler’s Consultation about a month and a half before the trip (if you are in Portugal look for Dr. Sandra Xará at the Uffizi Clinic).

the most famous habitants in Sigiriya

Do not forget under any circumstances:

  • Repellent – for those who like us did Safaris and walked through the tea plantations, its use is extremely important.
  • Sunscreen – use and abuse even if you don’t walk on the beach, because the climate is quite different from our own!

Speaking of climate, Sri Lanka has two types of monsoons, one that hits the north and east of the country from the northeast between October and January and another coming from the southwest that hits the country between May and August along the south and west coast.

Therefore, the best time to travel is from mid-January to mid-April.

Clothes/footwear:
Comfortable and fresh. Don’t take too many clothes, organize yourself for days and repeat some pieces combined in a different way, it’s very tiring to carry a full suitcase from one side to the other – yes, because if you go to Sri Lanka don’t just stay in one area or one hotel.

Regarding the places to visit in Sri Lanka, namely the temples, they require clothing that respects the customs and traditions, that is, to be able to enter the religious places, they must wear long pants or skirts, at least that cover the knees, and in the case also long pants or shorts for men. With regard to sweaters, they must cover the shoulders and the belly, both for women and men.

As for footwear, the ideal is also to be comfortable, sneakers are still the most suitable option. In temples you have to take off your shoes before entering, so, on those days, wear something more practical, sandals, flip-flops, or espadrilles, for example.

Drugs:
Gastric protectors and drugs for diarrhea. The cuisine is quite spicy and spicy, which can change your entire gastrointestinal function.
Antihistamines, anti-inflammatories or even a broad spectrum antibiotic (yes, I’m a bit paranoid, that’s what makes being a healthcare professional!).

And finally, Guronsan and Chollagut – to cure hangovers!

First aid:
It costs nothing to be forewarned!
Take curitas, for the blisters that will appear from walking a lot, take saline solution, some compresses and adhesive, so, any small wound you make, you can wash it and apply a small bandage.

Flights:

From Portugal we flew with Qatar Airlines, stopping in Madrid and Doha, arriving later in Colombo, the flight took about 11 hours in total. For travelers from Brazil, Emirates is one of the best options, making a stopover in Dubai. But from different parts of the globe, the most varied companies fly to Columbus.

Don’t forget – passport valid for 6 months.

You can apply for a Visa online at www.eta.gov.lk, at the time we went the country was offering a visa free of charge in order to promote tourism.

One of the celebrities we met during a Safari

Transport in Sri Lanka:

Do yourself a favor and hire a driver!

Sri Lanka is not big, but everything is immensely far away when the roads suck! A journey that would easily take 30min now takes 3 hours or more!

We hired Mr. Parveen Mendis (yes, it comes from the Portuguese name Mendes) which was amazing. He has kind of a travel company with several drivers/guides and a small fleet of cars – www.tourguideinsrilanka.com . Parveen is also a tour guide and helped us to organize and structure our entire trip. He stayed with us for 10 days and slept in the accommodations provided for drivers close to the hotels where we were staying. It helped us with what to do and what to experience while traveling, what made sense and demystified what didn’t. He did most of the more adventurous trips with us so that we could do them more safely and so that we could understand the details that only the locals know.

At the time, we paid a total of €500 for the 10-day trip, which, on balance, was super affordable, taking into account that it included the car, the spent gasoline, and all the guiding. He was with us from the moment we landed in Colombo until the moment we said goodbye to Sri Lanka.

Galle

But now let’s get down to business: what to visit in Sri Lanka?

We only went for 10 days, many more we would need to see everything we wanted. Our friends Eshan and Anika that we met in 2018 in South Africa are from Sri Lanka and have already told us: “you have to come back, there was so much to see and do!”

We will certainly be back! But now read our next article and see how we organized our 10 days in Sri Lanka.

Portuguese Version

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Osteria Gucci

By Flavors and Senses | Published: July 19, 2022

Color and centuries of history on the walls of Osteria Gucci*

Imagine a place where gastronomes, historians and fashionistas can meet in the same room… that place is Osteria Gucci! The restaurant that was born from the combination of the Florentine brand with the highest name in Italian gastronomy, Massimo Bottura, is located in the middle of Plaza della Signoria, in the Gucci Gardens.

The supposed garden is nothing more than the brand’s museum and a dip into the genius of Alessandro Michele, the company’s creative director, where there is no shortage of plants, animals, patterns, a lot of charm and a lot of madness, which is also joined by a signature restaurant that lives and breathes from the same creative trait.

There is not much to say about the decoration, everything is placed in the right measure, in the right place and in the right dose. Of note are the sculpted coats of arms that are part of the city’s history and the private room where we had the privilege of dining. As you would expect, no detail is left to chance, from the menus to the tableware created specifically for the restaurant – my desire is to bring all the service home.

At the helm of the restaurant we found Karime Lopez, a Mexican woman with qualities that assure us that here we won’t be in a restaurant without a chef or soul. Her career has taken her around the world, from working alongside Santi Santamaria to Noma, passing through Mugaritz, Ryugin, Pujol and, of course, Osteria Francesca, and this is a little of what we will find in her Tuscan-influenced menu, where there is no shortage of space for some of her creations.

gougères

Already installed whe started with some great gougères to whet the appetite, where the umami notes from the tomato dust made a big upgrade to this small delicacy.

Salumi – Culatello, spalla cotta, mortadella, stroighino
One of those cured meat selections which are impossible to resist. Product carefully selected, well cuted, at room temperature and accompanied by a great choice of breads, especially the long and addictive grissinos. A start without creativity as expected, but with a lot of flavor and demonstrating very well what osteria is all about.

Pollock – ricotta, chard, tomato and pepper
The technique that immortalized Pollock and the combinations of colors and arrangements that have always been surprising in Bottura’s dishes, here in a ricotta and chard ravioli topped with sauces from the remaining vegetables and a little bechamel to connect all the elements. Beautiful and tasty.

Tortellini in parmigiano reggiano cream
A chef’s signature classic, and perhaps the most traditional of the dishes on the menu. Perfect pasta, good filling and rich sauce, sumptuous but at the same time delicate. One of those dishes that we can simply eat every day without getting tired.

Vieni in Sicilia con Me – risotto, tomato and red prawn
Probably the best and most well-executed dish of the night on par with the tortellinis. Impeccable risotto, creamy and al dente without excesses, good quality prawns, served raw, as required by the rules. All enhanced with the notes of tomato and herbs powder.

Can they make all the risottos around the world like this one?

Emilia Burger – chianina, cotechino, parmigiano reggiano, salsa verde and balsamic mayo
Burger made by combining chianina with cotechino sausage, accompanied by different sauces and brioche bread. Good and delicate burger, but it still doesn’t bring us the happiness of a simple burger like Curb’s (those who follow us on instagram know what I mean).

Purple rain
Desserts bring maximum elegance to the table, or  weren’t we in a haute couture house. Lavender mousse and ice cream combined with different coconut textures. Fresh, light, delicate and flavored as you would expect from a good dessert.

Charley’s Sandwich
A dessert created for Charley, Massimo’s son, that changes with the seasons. Here in a typical ice cream sandwich, elevated to stardom. Hazelnut and chocolate in different textures, a hint of gold and voila. It was enough to eat…

Installed with a small group of friends in the private room, the service was exemplary, always present when necessary and with the professionalism expected from the connection of “two luxury brands”.

Final Remarks

Unlike many restaurants with the signature of star chefs that limit themselves to giving the face and signing of the menu, almost always lacking the soul and pulse, here you can breathe the world of Bottura and some of his most classic recipes such as tortellinis, but the The kitchen is from Karime Lopez, who, with her peculiar way of combining textures and giving elegance to culinary traditions that are not hers, makes this Osteria Gucci much more than a branch. It is a valid restaurant in its own right, so valid that in just over a year it won its first Michelin star and spread around the world with new restaurants in the USA and Japan.

Obviously the combination of Bottura and Gucci comes at a price, so you can’t expect a cheap meal like in many of the great Florentine classics, but it’s far from just another space to see and be seen. Here the gastronomic combination and the fashionista side are made in harmony, satisfying everyone equally, even the gastronome with the soul of Anton Ego.

.

Osteria Gucci
Prices from 75€ – (whitout wines)
P.za della Signoria, 10 – Firenze
+39 055 062 1744

Versão Portuguesa

Photos: Flavors & Senses and *D.R.

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Casa Marcelo

By Flavors and Senses | Published: December 10, 2020

When speaking about Haute Galician cuisine there are a few names that come to mind, but rarely do we hear  Marcelo Tejedor, even if he probably is the “godfather” of an entire generation of chefs and restaurants with a refined gastronomic predicament.

Graduated alongside Juan Maria Arzak, Jacques Maximin, Paul Bocuse and Alain Ducasse, in 1999 he return to Santiago and started the first of his revolutions. Let’s see, on his first drapery, Casa Marcelo appeared as a gastronomic restaurant, with an open kitchen, where the cooks were many times the elements in the room, and to that he added a single option, a tasting menu – to the reader it may look simple, and you see that everywhere, but in 1999 it was very disruptive.

History, the crises, and a restless brain made Marcelo start another revolution with his project in 2013, the restaurant was then a gastro bar, ending its gastronomic phase based on critics and Michelin stars; being more informal, client-centred and with an offer of modern Galician cuisine all about tapas!

The quick success and the sensitive cuisine of Marcelo and his right hand Martín Vásquez made the Red Guide forget of all its demands (at least in the Portuguese version…) and give it back its Michelin star, keeping it since then.

But on to the night of our visit, installed in the kitchen (the entire restaurant is an open space so we can stay in the red shared table or in different sections of the space) and honoured to have Martín as our cicerone, we chose to put ourselves in their hands and go ahead with our diner.

There’s no better way to start than bread, and what a bread! It’s produced daily at the kitchen of Casa Marcelo and it’s perfect in every way, worth a visit by itself – I would be happy to leave with a basket of it.

Black pearl oyster, padrón pepper
A very delicate oyster paired with a padrón pepper sauce and a spice oil, showcasing the fusion of cultures and flavours the cuisine at Marcelo’s is known for.

Bass “tiradito”, Aji Amarillo
Galician product, Peruvian influence, an amazing tiradito very well balanced in terms of acidity and spicy notes.

Cherry tomato salad, cucumber
A classic at the restaurant, with several versions over the years, and although simple looking, it’s not. Skinless tomato, cucumber granita and a secret sauce that binds all the elements in a beautiful combination of sweetness and acidity. Perfect!

Al ajillo shrimp Har-Gao
Here we start noticing the Asian influence, so well-accomplished experiences that lead to the opening of his recent restaurant Mr Chu. Back to our Har-Gao, the first one was slightly stuck to the plate, losing some of the dough, and its full sensation on the mouth. Having realized that, another one quickly came to the table, brilliantly made! Perfectly cooked shrimp, strong Spanish cuisine notes and a dim sum dough I never found in a non-Asian restaurant.

Grilled sardines, ratatouille
Another house classic that we could eat by the dozen. We could have it like these in our popular festivals, perfect texture, enrichened by the vegetables and a crunchy base to grab, have a bit and feel. Is it asking too much?

Cuttlefish poke
Slightly cooked cuttlefish on its own ink, and sushi rice. Good quality rice, a tasty combo, but the texture of the cuttlefish was not the best. Despite having absolutely nothing wrong with it, it was the least interesting dish of the evening.

Grilled bream, pak choi
Another perfect combination of Galician products with an Asian flavour, with a masterfully use of the grill, the fish was tender and delicate, with an amazing sauce.

Tartar steak
Those who don’t like tartar steak for sure never tried this one, and those who did won’t find enough adjectives for it. It’s got all you could ask of it, and those of you who know me, know who much I like a good tartar steak!

 Spicy Toro poke
Opposite to the cuttlefish poke, this one was perfect – the amazing tuna belly with all its fatness, nicely paired with the spicy notes of the seasoning. One of those dishes you can’t stop eating…

Leak-potato, egg yolk and Iberian bacon 
On the menu since the first version of the restaurant, the potato is cut and pressed to look like a leak, very crunchy, with lots of nuances and gourmand contrasts with the adding of the bacon and the yolk. One of those good sins!

Stewed cherries, mascarpone
It could be a tiramisù, but it was more interesting… The slightly cooked cherry melted perfectly with the delicate mascarpone cream and the sour notes of the cocoa. Very good!

Avocado, pineapple and coconut
Freshness, freshness, freshness, that’s how I like to end my long meals and that’s how we ended a memorable dinner at Casa Marcelo. Flawless textures, acidity, sweetness and fatness in the right proportions. Balance is the name for this dessert!

The wine list is not long, but it has handpicked options, where obviously the Galician wines have the spotlight and the prices are fair. We drank a La Pola 2016, from Ribeira Sacra, made from godello, albariño and dona branca, a wine that went well with the entire meal with its nuances and structure, not being tiring.

The service is frantic and at the same time super professional, leading us into a working scenario where everyone is surrounding the table, preparing the delicacies to be served.

Final Remarks
Thankfully there are people like Marcelo Tejedor, free people willing to take risks, without the fear of others opinions or distinctions. That rare personality, talent, and gastronomic sensitivity make Marcelo such a special chef, probably the most special in all the Galician region. Showing us distant flavours mixed with Galician ones, and also proving that haute cuisine doesn’t need to be still, or have certain service standards or even decoration. It has yes, to show us new paths, open our horizons and surprise us at every bite, and most of all respect the product.

We need more people like Marcelo and more trips like this one we went on as soon as entering the door. I’ll be missing this place and promise a soon return. Lots of returns!

Casa Marcelo
Prices from 45€ – (without wines)
Rua das Hortas, 1, 15705 – Santiago de Compostela – Spain
+34 981 55 85 80

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The Vintage House

By Flavors and Senses | Published: November 18, 2020

As you know, Douro has a very special place in my heart, and I can’t get tired of visiting, falling in love a bit more every time. We went back to The Vintage House at Pinhão, a place that brings us memories we don’t ever want to forget!

Now in charge of The Fladgate Partnership (with business associated with Port wine, tourism and distribution and also two other hotels –  The Yeatman and Hotel Infante Sagres), The Vintage House presents a new image, keeping its very characteristic tradition and charm.

An old cellar gave place to a luxury hotel with one of the most idyllic views of our country, this is the story of The Vintage House.

Located at Pinhão, dominated by terraced vineyards and estates, the bedroom balconies present this breathtaking view each morning.

First impressions
Arriving at the hotel, the reception by the staff was nice and cordial. Now the check-in is made in a more spacious room, quite cosy and with views over the river and the vineyards. We were offered a welcome drink while waiting in one of the comfortable sofas.

 Reception area

After the check-in, we were accompanied by a staff member that showed us some important places at the hotel, its new dynamic and organization, and forwarded us to our room.

Bedrooms
There are several types – Standard, Junior Suite, Suite Deluxe and Master Suite, all with the same important thing: the amazing views over the river and the vineyards!

We stayed in a spacious Junior Suite, with a bathroom that makes you sigh (you know how much I love a good bathroom!). With a generous 42m2 and its king-size bed, very comfy for a few relaxing days.

The decor follows the pattern of the hotel, classic, like an old family house that passes through several generations.

But nothing is more important in these bedrooms than falling asleep and waking up to the sounds of Douro, with the vineyards as confidants!

Lunch at restaurant Rabelo

Restaurants
The Vintage (allow me to treat it as a friend) presents us with three spaces, the Rabelo restaurant, the Library Bar and the Salão do Rio.

At the first one, we had the chance to have lunch at the terrace with vines over our heads and a wonderful and calm view over the Douro. If you choose to stay inside you are presented with the walls full of paintings of Douro.

But with good weather and the surrounding scenery, it would even be irresponsible to not seat at the terrace. Lunch went much better than in our previous visit, with well-prepared dishes and some good technical details, with a highlight to the selection of local bread and a great codfish.

The Library

At Library we spent an excellent late afternoon having some snacks and tasting a good wine (well, João did, since I was pregnant with Francisca at the time!). The bar has the atmosphere of an old house where wood is queen. Comfortable enough, classic and elegant as the rest of the hotel.

A special note to the nice employee that accompanied us during this idle time!

At Salão do Rio we had the chance to have a big breakfast with some love from a very sweet employee and here care about me being pregnant. Highlight to the staff! Salão do Rio also has wonderful views over the vineyards and Douro.

At the pool, you can have light meals and have refreshing drinks throughout the day!

Services
We can start with the beautiful and calm pool right in front of the river, following all the corners of the hotel that deserve a walk around. Inside the hotel, we have also the pleasant Salão dos Ingleses, a game room with a pool table, tv and fireplace.

The Hotel also offers a Tennis court, and wine tasting, with regional products and a wine store. It also has duly prepared rooms for conferences and events.

For activities outside the hotel, we have the chance to live unique moments along the Douro Valley, namely on board of PipaDouro or visiting one of the several Quintas of Douro, for instance, Quinta do Bomfim that is very nearby, with its famous restaurant Casa dos Ecos in charge of the Chef Pedro Lemos offering an amazing gastronomic experience!

Also very close to the hotel we have Quinta da Roêda and the possibility to visit and knowing its history and even have a nice picnic in a very intimate space with an astonishing view over the Douro.

Service
Unfortunately is general knowledge that is very hard to find graduated employees in hospitality/restaurants, mostly in the region of Douro. At Vintage our experience went well, without any problems with the service. The staff is young and nice, and the way we were welcomed in every department of the hotel was warm and caring.

A very positive note to the staff at the Library Bar and Salão do Rio. Ponto bastante positivo para os funcionários que estiveram connosco no Library bar e no Salão do Rio.

See you soon Vintage House!

The Vintage House
Bedrooms from 180€
R. António Manuel Saraiva, 5085-034 Pinhão
+351 254 730 230
reservations@vintagehousehotel.com

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Neolokal

By Flavors and Senses | Published: September 18, 2020

Several years have passed since we last visited Istanbul, and in the meantime a lot changed in the city, and Neolokal was not an exception. Maksut Askar’s talent crossed borders, and a lot was written in the foreign press, he gained a spot in the 50Best Discovery, and he also made a pit stop in Lisbon for a dinner with Pedro Pena Bastos, in the now extinct, Ceia.

With very vivid memories of his cuisine and the way he broke down and modernized the Anatolian cooking tradition, a return to Neolokal was mandatory in a new visit to this Turkish city.

And in good time we did so!

Neolokal’s dining room keeps its very special charm, very cosmopolitan, it could easily be in London or New York! But in reality it is in the Galata neighboorhood with an astonishing view over Sultanahmet that it all makes sense!

When looking at the menu we easily realize that it all evolved and no detail is left to chance, a welcome menu, the menu, an explanation about the origin and making of every dish, and a guide about the Turkish wines – Neolokal keeps an exclusively Turkish wine list, and actually, they recently opened a wine bar, with an highlight on natural wines and authentic food called – Foxy Local & Real.

The tasting menu consists in a series of dishes to share, split into several Mezze sections (vegetarian, cold, warm), fish courses, meat, and of course, desserts. The client chooses its own menu, number of dishes and which ones.

Sourdough bread with mushroom butter 

If on our previous visit we were delighted with the bread, we can attest it’s still a must of the restaurant, and now even with more character and personality, due to the living years of the dough, it’s really hard not to eat it with the entire meal.

After the bread, the courses promptly started arriving, with the 3 dishes of every section arriving at the same time, like in any traditional table.

 

Cabbage dolmade and Siyez
Siyez is the oldest grain in Anatolia and one of the first to be used by Men, here known as Einkorn, and used in this dish as bulgur, filling the cabbage dolmade. Mix it with the molasses, crunchy leafs and herbs puree and we have a vegetarian dish that makes us want to come back.

Root vegetables
Celery root, pumpkin, potato, Jerusalem artichoke, quince, and carrot are cooked to perfection in olive oil, following the traditional techinque zeytinyağli. Then served in different textures and at room temperature. A dish that showcases the quality of the product and techincal precision.

Topik, onion, potato, chickpea, and tahini 
A meze inspired in the Armenian emigrants in Istanbul, resulting once again in a unique combination of textures and flavors, where the tahini, the herbs and theirs oils, elevating the dish to another dimension.

What a wonderful trio to start!

We started the meal with a natural orange wine, Chamlija Kehribar Narince 2018,  100% made with Narince grapes. The vibrant color makes us think of an orange juice, the nose takes us to peach, apricot aromas, and a very surprising fresh character. A wine, that despite orange, goes more to a pet nat than a tanin showoff.

Su böreği
Su böreği is usually my choice for a Turkish quick breakfast/lunch. Kind off like a filo dough lasagna, filled with parsley and feta cheese. Here they obviously went a tab ahead, with the combo of shrimp, herb oil, crunchier doughs and “more cooked” doughs. Excellent!

Marinated anchovies 
Anchovies are probably the most emblematic fish from Bosphorus, being its vinegar pickled version a classic along the Mediterranean. In this dish, a special mention to the fig vinegar and the fresh white bean pickle. A flawless combo, full of flavor, with a freshness and acidity that makes us want to keep eating nonstop.

Smoked trout
A kisir salad, inspired on traditon where the bulgur is prepared with fermented turnip and black carrot juice. Accompanied with a delicious smoked trout, pine nut notes, pickles and a soft herb mayo. Another fresh combination, full of textures and flavors where once again the acidity had a fundamental role in the success of the dish.

To pair with this part of the meal, we had the Vinkara Hasandede 2018, a wine with peculiar notes, with highlight to the laurel, quince and lemon, working really well with the cold starters.

Kokoreç
Neolokal’s version of the Turkish classic, prepared with lamb heart, instead of the combination of all the entrails. “Simple” and full of spices, reminiscing the magic of the Turkish cuisine.

Içli Köfte
A pastel made with a bulgur and meat dough with a minced meat and dried fruits filling. Another take on street food, with another layer when combined with the lemon and mint yogurt foam, garlic oil and parsley. One of those dishes we could easily eat everyday and be happy!

Erişte with octopus
Another mark on the Turkish food route, eriste is the Turkish version of the Italian pasta, here prepared with vegetable and fish broth, wrapped in dried tomato pesto, octopus and nuts. A pure comfort dish!

Accompanied by a Pasaeli Sidalan 2017 from the Kaz Daglari region. A wine with a strong personality, produced organically and with respect for the grapes properties, surprising with its herbal and spicy notes, when combined with the dishes.

Papaz Yahni
Inspired in a fish stew brought by the Armenian to Turkey, here taken to another level by the perfectly cooked fish (largemouth bass) cooked with notes of spices and a sauce with notes of olives and a rich fish broth. Delicate and delicious!

Mom’s Meatballs
Here the Anatolian mom’s cuisine is recreated with a kebab where the meatballs are grilled and accompanied by the traditional “piyaz” salad recreated as a sauce. Flavor, succulence and texture that we ate with pleasure with our hands almost at the end of the meal.

Saddle Lamb
An enourmous dish to finish the main courses. Perfectly cooked lamb, full of spice notes from the marinade mix, paired with Mihlama, kind of a polenta, but much richer and flavorsome, and Uveyik, an ancestral grain, treated like a very al dente risotto.

To go with the warm starters we chose a Chamlija Papaskarasi 2016, another stranger to me, but the surprising wine of the night, with great elegance, reminding me of a mature pinot noir, with great expressiveness, very good!

Baklava
Baklava itself is a reason to visit Istanbul, crunchy dough, honey, and lots of technique. Neolokal’s version was still in my memories from our first visit, much lighter, but equally delicate and tasty. Served with a pistachio cream, dry caramelized fruits and almond ice cream. A hard to resist sweet!

Apple cake
Another homage to Anatolian moms, an apple cake full of nuances and technique, with nuts and apple, a carrot cake crisp, walnut ice cream and a “meringue” without egg whites, made from the cooking water of a root named çöven otu . Delicate, with all the elements playing very well together. Pure comfort.

Frigo

It is said that in Turkey it’s usual to eat ice cream bars in theaters, known as “Frigo”, here a bar with smoked black tea notes, raspberries and different textures of popcorn, crunchy and in ice cream form. A happy ending, after 15 moments it really seemed we were at a movie watching a parade of dishes and flavor interpretations that are not usual to us, but here with a rare contemporaneity.

The harmonization of the desserts was made with a Suvla Tatli tatli karasakiz 2017  a delicate dessert wine, intriguing with its flavors and aromas, if the nose identified red fruits, the quince notes had the real spotlight.

The service unrolled with great professionalism in a good mix of techincal rigor and relaxation, as the space and its nocturnal ambiance require. A due note to the wine service that has an essencial role to those like me that few or none know about the Turkish wine universe and its autochthonous grapes.

Final Remarks
The first time we visited Neolokal, the restaurant had just recently open, and even then we were surrendered to Maksut Askar’s cuisine, good bread, beautiful plating, lots of textures and lots of flavor, often using completely unknown ingredients to us. Seeing its evolution through the years and the beautiful path of its career has been an enourmous pleasure, culminating with a certainty by the ending of this 15 course meal, there is a lot that Turkey and the ancient Anatolian cuisine have to give to the contemporary cusine. From rare ingredients, spice combinations and games of texture, we all have a bit to learn and discover from what is made in this cuisine, and that is reason enough to visit the city.

See you soon!

Neolokal
Prices from 50€ – (without wines)
SALT Galata, Bankalar Caddesi Karaköy 34420 – Istanbul
+90 212 244 00 16

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Yeni Lokanta

By Flavors and Senses | Published: September 4, 2020

Turkish cuisine is much more than just kebab, meze or Lachmacun, as we could witness in our last trip to Istanbul, where the mix of ingredients, spices and textures rendered us speechless. A world of new flavours and almost limitless discoveries, paving the way for new restaurants to appear, as well as new chefs willing to take the Turkish cuisine back to older, more relevant times.

One of those restaurants is Yeni Lokanta – just as its name suggests, “new restaurant” – that opened its doors in 2013 through Civan Er, who was looking to stand out in a world of a more informal and sharing cuisine inspired by tradition, taking a more personal approach on the new Anatolian cuisine.

Cocktails with a nice, simple presentation and well-balanced flavours

As soon as we arrived at the restaurant, we could easily understand why the restaurant was so popular for both locals and visitors. The simple and somewhat rustic decoration, with a dimly lit environment, provides a unique ambience to a place where we could stay and enjoy for hours.

Comfortable, and after having decided on the cocktails, we chose the tasting menu for 2, an interesting new way to make its sharing cuisine idea known.

Manti, Antiochian yoghurt

First, one of the most memorable moments of this trip (so much that we ended up visiting another one of this chef’s restaurants just because of it), Manti, ravioli’s Turkish cousin. In this case, with meat filling, a superb yoghurt sauce, as well as pepper and herb oils. An explosion of flavours and sensations where everything comes together in perfection – I could easily eat this every single week.

Köfte tartare, potatoes, sumac and egg yolk.

Tartare inspired by the traditional Turkish meatballs, nicely plated and well-seasoned. On top, a kind of crispy Scottish egg of potato with liquid egg yolk on the inside.

Also noteworthy is the “sauce”, a type of molasses made with sumac (Turkish spice with an acidic flavour that can easily replace lemon).

The sourdough bread garnish is also pretty great!

Beetroot, sour cherry, almond and kaymak

A vegetarian dish, where the main highlights are the textures, as well as the connection between spice, herb oils and sumac. Everything goes along perfectly with kaymak (a thicker and fatter cream, traditionally used in Turkish deserts). A fine dish, even for those who are not so keen on beetroot, such as me.

Öcce, fresh herb fritters, sour cherry ice cream

Herbs instead of the classic zucchini, creating small crunchy balls with ice cream (actually, it was more of a sauce than a sour cherry ice cream). Despite being fresh and with some flavour nuances, it did not live up to the standards set by the dishes we had previously tasted.

Goat cheese, chards, chilli honey, hazelnuts and tamarind

A terrific dish! A rich and creamy cheese, medium grilled that created an interesting crispy top, chards with a nice texture blending perfectly with dried fruits and the balance between the different flavours of the sauces used.

Shrimp and vine leaves tempura

A traditionally Turkish tempura, with classic vine leaves, wrapped shrimps, fried on a crispy, thin batter. As a garnish, a fresh sauce made of yoghurt, chards and ginger. An interesting, simple and successful dish!

Lamb sausage, walnuts, borlotti bean and cucumber

The way the Turkish cuisine includes lamb on its dishes is second-to-none, and the Lamb Sausage is the proof – an explosion of flavours! A fantastic medium grilled lamb sausage, a flavoured cream of beans and nuts, and the contrasting freshness of the cucumber. Again, a simple yet delicious delicacy, well-balanced altogether from the flavour to the combination of different textures.

Octopus, yoghurt and bottarga

The Turkish octopus was never one of my favourite dishes and the one I tried was not an exception. The quality difference between this one and the Portuguese or Spanish octopus gives me mixed feelings, especially regarding its texture. Nevertheless, the freshness and lightness of the garnish, as well as the new dimension brought by the bottarga’s flavour, ended up being a nice addition to the less exciting protein.

Baked Alaska (Turkish version)

Raspberries, meringue, clotted cream and walnut are the ingredients to a well-balanced Turkish version of Baked Alaska.

Mahlep, salted caramel, hazelnut and pumpkin

Or better put, a Turkish panna cotta with salty caramel, Mahlep (a traditional seed used in Turkish bakeries), hazelnut and pumpkin sauce. Great balance on the sugar, nice texture – without the usual surplus of jelly – and excellent combination of flavours. A nice surprise indeed.

We ended up pairing every dish with cocktails, but you cannot go wrong within a wide variety of Turkish wines with plenty to offer.

Final remarks

Turkish cuisine and the traditions of all Anatolia are constantly changing. In a country where traditions try to remain intact, there are more and more young chefs such as Civan Er who try to write and define the future of this country’s cuisine. Not only by being faithful to its tradition, but also by opening the door to the world, to new techniques and more modern plating ideas.

That is exactly what we found at Yeni. Dishes with strong flavours, some of them unknown, a great blend of textures and a lot of freshness. Everything within a very modern and cosmopolitan setting that captivates both the locals and visitors. Well, as for ourselves, we will certainly come back. Especially because, even after several months after this trip, we just cannot forget the Mantis that jump-started this dinner.

Yeni Lokanta
Prices from 40€ – (without wines)
Tomtom, Kumbaracı Ykş. No:66, 34433 Beyoğlu – İstanbul
+90 212 292 25 50

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Lai’Tcha

By Flavors and Senses | Published: July 15, 2020

For those passionate about the pleasures of the table, Adeline Grattard doesn’t need presentations, mostly for her restaurant Yam’Tcha and her presence at the famous Netflix show “Chef’s Table”. Briefly speaking, she studied at the famous Parisian school Ferrandi,  and developed her technique alongside Pascal Barbot at L’Astrance,  and there met her husband Chi Wah Chan, a specialist in tea. Together they embarked on an adventure to Hong Kong, Chi Wah Chan’s hometown, where she discovered a whole new world of flavours, techniques and spices, and learned with the most prestigious chefs in the region.

When returning to Paris, they decided to open their own restaurant, Yam’Tcha, where tea and wine fight for the spotlight alongside their signature dishes, and quickly they won their first Michelin star and became one of the most interesting tables in Paris.

Among several projects, Lai’Tcha is the lastest one, inspired in the typical street drink that combines black tea with condensed milk – a not at all Parisian coffee, full of Hong Kong spirit, with Asian inspired dishes, take out, coffee and the obvious teas, carefully chosen by Chi Wah Chan.

The name would be enough to justify the first visit, however, what took us to Les Halles was an even greater reason. Unable to make a reservation and visit the restaurant during a short stay in Paris, and knowing on Tuesdays the couple is at the kitchen of Lai’Tcha, we went on to a unique tasting of the most relaxed combinations by Adeline Grattard.

King Crab Spring Roll and scallops with spices 
The start of this tasting anticipates a lucky dinner… Starting with the spring roll, with a moist and full of flavour crab, and obviously homemade, well-paired with a barbecue-like sauce, Chinese homemade version. The scallops, cooked with spices, vegetables and the freshness of the coriander to contrast. Great!

Eggplant, seafood and rice 
Followed a comfortable dish of eggplant, stewed with seafood, vegetables and Asian seasonings, served over rice. A light dish, but at the same time with several dimensions of flavours and textures. While not being a great fan of eggplant I could’ve easily eaten two or three bowls, and that says everything about the dish…

Polpette, China vs Italy
An adaptation of the famous Italian meatballs, to the Chinese recipe book, quickly transporting us to a dim sum filling, full of flavour and well balanced by the fuyu and mushroom sauce. The picture does not live up to the taste of the dish!

Grapefruit, Passion fruit and Shiso and Mocchi
The freshness any ending asks for, with a simple but well-executed grapefruit salad, with passion fruit and shiso. Nicely prepared Mochi, with a delicate and soft dough, as it should! Beautiful ending!

The service was simple and discrete, in a calm and super serene environment – it seems not a lot of people know about the chef’s dinners at the restaurant… And for us that turned out great!

Final Remarks

It could be a neighbourhood coffee shop or restaurant, but the food, the concept, and of course the people behind it, make Lai’Tcha a unique experience! For the almost exclusive experience offer, for the most exclusive offer of Hong Kong dishes and food, and for the quality of the produce – Adeline Grattard is proud to keep the same suppliers and producers from her gastronomic restaurant – the visit is more than worthy, as it was at the small Boutique Yam’Tcha. The Tuesday menus with the chef’s signature are the cherry on top of the cake, in one of the best experiences of Chinese influence in the city of light. Oh, and it is said to also have one of the best Brunch in town…

To repeat!

Lai’Tcha
Prices from 33€ – (without wines)
7 rue du Jour – Paris
+33 1 40 26 05 05

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La Table D’Eugène

By Flavors and Senses | Published: May 5, 2020

Montmartre is a mandatory neighbourhood to visit when in Paris! Besides the hills, the Sacre-Coeur Basilica, the unique view over the rooftops of Paris, the overflow of artists at Place du Tetre, the historical constructions and of course, the bohemian vibe from the 20s or 30s that is still possible to feel in its narrow and sloping streets.

As in any other touristy place, the best option is to flee from spaces with tons of people, feel the atmosphere of the area and its architecture, wandering around its streets while picturing yourselves in the company of Hemingway, Picasso, Monet and many others.

And there is located the La Table D’Eugène, considered by many the best restaurant in this area. Open since 2008, by the hands of Geoffroy Maillard, it started has a classic bistro, but Geoffroy’s schooling –  Le Nôtre, Plaza Athénée with Éric Briffard, and the Epicure at Hotel Le Bristol with Éric Frechon – took him to fine dining, and in 2015 he won his first Michelin start, that he keeps ’till today.

Arriving at the restaurant and after the long curtain, we are surprised by a small, well decorated, and cosy dining room, without the apparent ceremony of a classic Michelin. Warmly welcomed and quickly accompanied to our table, we soon get a small explanation about the concept and menus.

In good French manners, the initial toast is made with Champagne Pierre Gimonnet & Fils 1er Cru, while the first snacks arrived at the table.

Dashi, foie gras and horseradish ravioli

Corn tartelete with salmon roe    

Vegetable tempura with veggie charcoal and spices

We didn’t come with pre-conceived ideas or expectations, but right here we knew we were in for something good in this lunch. Excellent Dashi and tempura!

Scallop Ceviche, radish, meringue and roe 
“Leche” served in a shaker like a cocktail, a dish full of fresh elements and textures, demonstrating the great technical skills of the team. A light and fresh start, with a noteworthy elegance.

Mackerel Gravlax, beetroot aguachile, dashi and hibiscus  
A dish worked from a colour, and from the combination of the interesting mackerel gravlax with more earthy flavours. Technically perfect, with an excellent combination of flavours, I could only acknowledge the gravlax that ends up losing a bit of protagonism, among so many and good elements, textures and flavours.

By the hand of the charming Catherine, at our glasses arrived a Pouilly-Fumé Les Cris 2018 from Domaine A. Cailbourdin, a pure Sauvignon Blanc, fruity and mineral. Went well the cure of the fish and the earthy notes of the dish.

Celery root, pecorino cheese, and smoked butter
The vegetarian dish of the menu was also the most challenging in terms of flavours and textures. The cooking of the root moulded its intensity while giving it a pleasant texture and a flavour that worked perfectly with the smoked notes of the butter and the greasiness of the cheese foam.

To go with, an Arbois Cuvée d’Automne do Domaine de la Pinte, a classic from Jura, in which the complex notes of the Savagnin, moulded by the Chardonnay, resulted in a complex and fresh wine, with the confit and dried fruits notes working very well with the dish.

 Monkfish, cabbage, kale and beetroot
Looking at the plate it was beautiful, and the tasting was amazing! Perfectly cooked monkfish – very rare – well paired with earthy flavours and spicy notes of the pepper used on the fish. A great, great dish!

Pintades, vegetable puree, leek, peanut and mole
Beautiful, full of textures and flavours elevating the pintades to a great level. Another dish where the high level of cuisine practised here was noticeable. And yes, that sauce you see in the picture forced me to keep eating bread (good bread, by the way).

Well paired with a red Languedoc full of red fruits and good structure, a Corbières Rozeta 2017 by Maxime Magnon.

Goats cheese, olives and whisky caramel – a pre-dessert that was also a challenge to taste by the flavours combined. Great! 

Pear, lemon, white chocolate, ginger, lychees and geranium
The dessert was at the same high level of the previous dishes, with the chef once again working well with textures, in a light and fresh ending, as I love.

Chocolate Sphere
When we thought it was over, at our table arrives a classic of the restaurant. The chocolate sphere, covered in chocolate sauce, chocolate ice cream, tonka bean and dentelle crêpes. A piece of sin to those who can’t resist a chocolate dessert. We can’t, at all!

We ended with a Gaillac Doux,  Loin de L’Oeil du Domaine Plageoles 2016, with its sweetness and aromas working very well with the pear.

The service was flawless throughout lunch, with the dishes well-explained, without rush or pretentiousness.

Final Remarks 
A neighbourhood restaurant, that is much more than that! In a few years, Geoffroy Maillard transformed his small bistro in what he does best, fine dining! Without palatial decorations, or pompous tables like in many other great restaurants in town. The chef accomplished a nice balance between the informal and the refinement, allied to the haute cuisine. The dishes have technical knowledge above average, as well as a surprising capacity for matching flavours.

It was for sure one of the tables that surprised me the most in our last trips to Paris, I’ll gladly return!

La Table D’Eugène
Prices from 38€ – lunch menu (without wines) 
18 rue Eugène Sue – Paris
+33 1 42 55 61 64

Portuguese Version

Photos: Flavors & Senses

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